Steve, if I were there I would visit the local bazaars. There will be plenty of choices I suppose. I personally prefer tribal rugs, Turkoman, Baluchis. When having lived in Kuwait some years ago, we went to the Friday market (maybe every Friday). My Afghan friends there baught their stuff during the hot summer months in Mazar or Herat, I suppose. Excellent quality and quite inexpensive. I have recently been able to get, via Amazon, a copy of the classic, R.D. Parsons' "The Carpets of Afghanistan" (1983, 1990). Although not even 20 years old in its new edition, it definitely describes a world which is gone. Another revealing book is S. Azadi's "Carpets in the Baluch Tradition" (1986). Regarding women. 'Real' carpets in tribal societies are woven by women sitting in their tents and producing for their dowry. This has, however become an industry and even child labor has to be expected. To make a living in refugee camps, men are also willing to weave.